- By John T. Braun
We were on our way to Cherry Creek when the driver asked about our dinner the night before. After telling him that we had eaten at Rioja, he asked if it was our first time. Hardy laugh from Dena and I. Those of you who know me know that Rioja is pretty much my favorite restaurant. Ever. Right there in downtown Denver. When I worked for Qwest, Rioja was were I ate dinner. Each night. I had my own chair by the kitchen. Yeah, over the top? Maybe. I’m biased and not in a position to diagnose myself.
I first met Jennifer Jasinski when she was chef at Panzano. She left to open Rioja. To explain how much of a fan I am of Jen’s food, I received no less than four emails from friends in Denver when the local paper announced that she was opening her own restaurant. I was thrilled.
So, last night saw us walking to Rioja. What a joy. It had been three years or more. Happily, walking in, I was immediately greeted by Niko. Throughout the meal, we also were happy to catch up with Neil and Dana too. Like old times. Niko remembered my standard libation…Diet Coke, no ice (it pretty much pairs well with everything). The bread was as good as I remembered, and the atmosphere upscale and comfortable.
We started the night with salads. Dena had a new chopped salad featuring hearts of palms, and I had my other stand by…the Rioja House Salad. Yum. Another piece of bread? Yes, thank you. Can you see me smiling?
The restaurant was filling up by now. It’s funny how the laughter, chatter and sounds from the kitchen all combine to create a perfect symphony of sound. Like I said before, upscale and comfortable. The background noise simply completed the ambiance.
For our main course, Dena chose one of the most innovative gnocchi dishes I’ve ever witnessed. The menu calls it Paella Gnocchi. Jen has literally figured out how to crust potato gnocchi with rice, and then pair it with mussels, Hawaiian blue prawn (think small lobster), calamari and chicken sausage, all in a fantastic smoked paprika tomato broth.
Me? I’m a sucker for tuna. Jen has never disappointed either. I ordered the seared Big Eye tuna dish with baited breath. Served with a coconut crusted plantain cake in a tomato red curry sauce, I found it so good that the bottom of the plate appeared before I knew it. The tuna was seared just right so that it was rare inside. It cut like butter.
I did recognize some other perennial favorites on the menu including the tuna sashimi and tuna tartare, hand made mozzarella and Rioja “picnic” (a sampler plate of wonderful meats, cheeses, olives and more). Jen’s handmade pasta always represents Rioja’s talents in pasta making. They are always unique and outstanding.
Often, after a meal like this, we politely decline desert, but I simply couldn’t pass it up. We did need something a little lighter though, and two selections fit the bill just right. First, we selected the trio of sorbets. Granny Smith apple, mango and peach flavors served on a delightful cookie plate was my selection. Dena enjoyed the angel food cake with strawberry sorbet. Both deserts were light, flavorful and perfect endings to our meals.
I’m not sure I’ll be able to wait another three years this time. I may have to find a position with Qwest again so that I won’t have to! Thanks for a great meal, Rioja.